In the few days we spent in Morro Bay, we busily drove around the local State parks, enjoying the the monumental landscapes (the continent's largest sand dunes at Guadalupe and the 4 mile sandspit separating the Bay from the Pacific) and getting out of the city into the fresh air. I quickly changed my mind about all this beautiful countryside on encountering a snake. I couldn't move. Totally frozen to the spot, seemingly mesmorised by this slippery black and yellow creature on the ground only inches away from me Ben yanked me away and we watched it slither into the undergrowth.
On our last day in this area we went to the garish and overstuffed 'Hearst Castle', the manifestation of one (very rich) man's obsession with European art and architecture. Filled with real antique statues, oil paintings, carpets and even walls lines with church pews, this place screams the old motto 'money cannot buy you taste'. Over the course of 29 years Hearst built somewhere to entertain famous guests, and as a home to his long-term partner Marion Davies, only requiring guests would stay sober and busy, and come to dinner in the evenings where he would preside and listen to their stories of the days' activities. The views from the top were breathtaking, and it was fascinating to listen to the knowledgeable guide talk us through the three re-fashionings of the Neptune pool and see how so much money and such vision and determination can come together to make dreams come true.
Monterey and Big Sur
Having decided to book ahead we took what we could and booked a couple of nights at Pinnacle's National Monument Park near Monterey. 'Near' isn't strictly true, although if we could have borrowed Hearst's private plane it would have been far easier. The roads seemed to run mockingly parallel, forcing us to drive 3 sides of a square to get to the site, which was itself 40 miles inland. Teething troubles of travelling a foreign country I guess!
We spent a day at the world famous Monterey aquarium, playing with Bat Rays and starfish, as well as freaking out at the jellyfish and hammerhead sharks swimming far too close for comfort. Thank god for the reinforced glass between us is all I can say..
Time is running out here on our pcs at St Helena, Napa Valley public library so I will leave you pondering this: what is it, do you think, that could have been the reason our hotel in San Francisco was so cheap? Option one: ghetto location, option two: crazed, porn-addicted fellow residents or option three: Norman Bates-esque hotelier.
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